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In solo mode on the Pilgrim's Way to Santiago de Compostela: total disconnection in the Loudunais region
Going solo on the Camino de Compostela was on my to-do-list. Now I’ve done it, and I think I’ll do it again!
One morning, I packed my bag, tightened my shoelaces and set off. Here I am on the paths of the Pays Loudunais, right where the path of Saint-Martin crosses that ofEleanor. We’re at the crossroads of Poitou,Anjou and Touraine. It’s a discreet corner that exudesauthenticity. Walking here on your own is like taking a break from the hustle and bustle, without feeling nostalgic. It’s just me, my thoughts and a few miles of freedom.
Why I chose to walk the Chemin de Saint-Martin alone
The Camino de Saint-Martin has that soothing quality that you only find on routes designed for reflection.
A solo break on the Camino de Compostela
You don’t have to be a mystic to appreciate it. This route follows the memory of Martin of Tours, the famous character who cut his cloak in half to give half to a beggar. For me, it was above all an opportunity to try out slow tourism in its entirety. I hadn’t come here looking for a revelation, but the peace and quiet caught me between two hedges, to the rhythm of the birdsong.
Here, everything is simple. You go at your own pace along one of the many hiking trails in the area. I felt the warm wind on my face and, for once, I had the impression that I was exactly where I belonged. I wasn’t watching my watch any more. When you’re riding solo, you quickly learn that luxury is being able to stop in front of a church tower or a field of sunflowers without upsetting anyone. One village follows another. They all have the charm of white stone and Romanesque churches that are a natural part of the landscape.
The serenity and friendliness of the Pays Loudunais
I took a life-saving break in a little country bistro. One of the locals offered me a coffee and said: “Here, you don’t just pass through, you stop”. He summed up the spirit of the Loudunais region. In this welcoming area, it’s easy to talk to people and share an anecdote. Often, these improvised moments are the most sincere. In this way, the route becomes an excuse to meet people who love their land without arrogance. That’s what it means to be serene: to move forward without pressure, knowing that the next stage will be as warm as the last.
Eleanor of Aquitaine, my guide to the Loudunais region
There’s a change of atmosphere with the Aliénor trail. Here, I had the impression that I was walking alongside a woman who didn’t let herself be pushed around. Eleanor of Aquitaine was a daring and free queen!
The story of a sovereign in the Loudunais region
Her footsteps mark the whole of the Pays Loudunais, between forests and quiet valleys. Following her itinerary, I discovered villages where time seems to have taken a prolonged siesta. It’s the sovereign aspect of the PL’S brand that stands out. You feel that the history is there, solid, but it doesn’t overwhelm you.
At Monts-sur-Guesnes, I really got a kick out of it. This village has been awarded the ” Petites cités de caractère” label, and it’s easy to see why! Its castle is truly impressive. I spent some time in the immersive rooms that tell the story ofEleanor and her son, Richard the Lionheart. It’s interactive and lively. There’s never a dull moment! I even saw a trebuchet firing demonstration. It’s the kind of place where you feel small but inspired by the daring figures of the past.
Solo medieval immersion on the roads to Compostela
The marvellous thing about pilgrimage routes is that they are full of encounters. And this is especially true in the Pays Loudunais! Walking along an old wash-house, I came across a lady walking her dog. She spoke ofEleanor as if they’d had tea together the day before. In the Pays Loudunais, the past is not locked away in glass cases. It’s part of the scenery! I then continued on to Moncontour. Its keep dominates the plain. It’s a strategic location that has seen many battles. But today, it’s the perfect place to get some height. Climbing to the top of the dungeon gives you a sensational panoramic view of the vineyards and hills. Take a deep breath and you’ll feel a bit like the master of the world, all alone up there.
Enjoy the silence (and a glass of Saumur) in PL'S
What I love about this adventure is that the walk ends up bringing us back to basics. You learn to listen to the sound of the wind in the wheat or the rustle of a hedge. Nothing spectacular, and yet it’s all there! It’s the very definition of an unspoilt region. Slow tourism isn’t just a buzzword, it’s a reality that’s being lived out here.
At the end of the day, my favourite moment is the tasty reward. The Loudunais region is famous for its vineyards. So I stopped off at an estate to taste an AOP Saumur. The winemaker explained his work to me with infectious passion. That’s what the ‘Si bien en PL’S’ brand is all about: simply appreciating the good things in life. We share a glass, discuss the quality of the soil or the forthcoming harvest. Even when you’re on your own on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, you always end up doing the world again with someone!
Dare to embark on a solo adventure in the Pays Loudunais to find yourself again
If you need to clear your head, take a deep breath and let yourself be surprised, these trails are for you. You can go for a day or a week, but the energy remains the same: peaceful and friendly. This is not a mass tourist destination. This is an area that you can slowly get to grips with, step by step.
The Chemin de Saint-Martin and the Chemin d’Aliénor are real experiences. Forget your GPS and follow the steeples and sunken lanes. Let yourself be carried along by the people you meet. In the Pays Loudunais, it’s often said that getting lost is the best way to find yourself. And to be honest, after a few days here, I can confirm: you leave with a light spirit and a strong desire to come back. It’s a journey that simply feels good. Between two strides, you understand why this region is so proud of its discreet character and its conviviality. So, are you ready for asolo adventure?
